My epiphany wine was a 1994 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon. Al- though it now retails for more than $65 a bottle, in 1997 it cost "only" about $30, which for me was still expensive. But once I experienced the wine's velvety texture and the sense of warmth that spread through my core at each sip, I was hooked.

The next day I started my own wine cellar.

Let me clear up a common misconception. A wine cellar isn't a place. It's really a combination of bottles you plan on drinking at a later date along with a certain state of mind that says you're careful about how you store your juice.

Proper storage conditions are essential to long-term wine survivability, but a $20,000 custom-built cellar isn't really necessary. Fifty-five degrees is optimal, but anywhere from 50 to 60 degrees is fine, with the wine maturing more quickly the higher the thermometer reads. The important thing is not so much specific temperature as constant temperature. Other ideal conditions include 50 to 70 percent humidity and a dark, vibration-free location.

But storage is only half the equation. You must also have a collection of wines to store. Of course, one problem is that the only constant in life is change. My tastes have changed considerably since I began my cellar, and as a consequence, my collection is sadly deficient in representation from several areas of the wine world.

With the benefit of hindsight, if I were starting my cellar now, I'd surely include more sparkling wines. They match so well with food, and bubbles complement almost any occasion. Try the subtle, elegant Laetitia Brut Cuvee, a blend of three base wines that shows citrus and green apple along with earthy cherry and a hint of melon.

Also look for the slightly sweet Jacob's Creek Sparkling Rose from southeastern Australia. The metallic highlights blend well with a creamy, melon finish that's soft, balanced and succulent.

As for whites, although many provide great pleasure immediately, some can be much better after a few years of bottle age. One I'd look for is the pale-chartreuse Brokenwood Semillon from the Hunter Valley, in New South Wales, Australia. Wines from this house generally age quite nicely, with the semillon starting out grassy and citrusy and then garnering more honeyed aromas and flavors in later years.

Another white for a new cellar could be the creamy, floral Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer Reserve from Alsace, France. Tangy orange sherbet mixes with baking spice on the attack, and it has enough spark to carry through to the lingering, clean finish. A terrific wine at a very fair price, and it has the stuffing to last in your cellar for several years.

As for reds, I like the juicy Fratelli Revello Barbera D'Alba from Piedmont, Italy, with its characteristic aromas of blackberries and cream. Full-bodied, with a round, caressing mouth feel and a bitter chocolate finish, it explodes on the palate.

The fleshy Alamos Malbec Seleccion from Mendoza, Argentina, does well in the cellar, with its round, enticing flavors of blueberry and fig compote backed by hints of anise seed and caramel. Strong yet pure, it's a wonderful wine that won't break the bank.

Sure, most wine drinkers don't think much past their next bottle, but the true cognoscenti of the grape know that taking the time and effort to create a properly stored collection of bottles makes all the difference. Being able to pull out aged bottles at the height of drinkability can be a tremendous source of pride.

You don't need much to create your own cellar, just a dark corner of your basement and some carefully chosen bottles to share with your loved ones.

What more could a wine lover want?

benweinberg@mywinenation.com