Riesling is one of my guilty pleasures. But not the sickly sweet, low-rent versions found on the shelves of almost every liquor store in America. The Rieslings I'm talking about can be either dry or dolce, but they always have one thing in common: deftly balanced fruit and acidity. This isn't easy to accomplish under the best of circumstances, much less in the marginal terroirs where Riesling is often grown.

Unlike many whites, Riesling can be made in dry or sweet styles. Dry versions typically have a higher alcohol content because the winemakers allow for longer fermentation, thus causing more grape sugar to be converted into ethanol. They also can seem lighter in texture than their sweet cousins because dissolved sugars increase the liquid's viscosity.

The ancestral home of dry Riesling lies in the jumbled terrain that stretches from Alsace in northeast France through the mountainous valleys of southwest Germany. From the French side, try the Domaines Schlumberger Riesling Les Princes Abbeys, a floral white that offers apple blossom aromas along with quince, kumquats and a light smokiness. It's quite dry and well-defined, with a nice finish.

My German choice would be the Dr. Fischer Riesling Steinbock, a pretty blend of floral aromas and key lime flavors. This classy, delicate, nuanced wine is perfect with appetizers and lighter meals.

Other countries also can make terrific dry Riesling, including Australia, which has evolved into the standard bearer for New World versions of this complex style of juice. One of my favorites is the tangy Kilikanoon Riesling Mort's Block. Although the lime, pineapple and grapefruit aromas are quite structured, on the finish these flavors have a delightful finesse and intensity.

Dry Rieslings are great food wines and can be endlessly fascinating in their own right, but I actually prefer my Riesling sweet, so long as there is sufficient acidity to balance the sugar as part of a harmonious whole.

This balancing act is most perfectly executed in the wines of Germany, where a unique intersection of climate, weather and steep, rocky hillsides translates into an ideal haven for great Riesling. The 2007 vintage is shaping up as one of the best in recent memory.

At the higher-alcohol, less-sweet end of the spectrum, definitely consider the elegant Dr. Thanisch Riesling Classic, its finely delineated citrus, peach and floral elements leading seamlessly into a thirst-quenching finish.

If I were thinking of something a bit sweeter, I'd grab a bottle of the well-balanced Dr. Pauly-Bergwiler Riesling Kabinett Wehlener-Sonnenuhr, redolent of autumn flowers, tangerines and honey.

Clusserath-Weiler Riesling Spatlese Trittenheimer Apotheke is one that I'd choose at the next step up the sugar ladder. Aromas of fresh-cut violet and slate complement the black currant, peach and lime flavors.

At the very top of the sweetness mountain stands the Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Auslese Graacher-Himmelreich, with its high-toned jasmine, citrus and red berry nose. However, this is really a delicate wine, marked by finesse and a finely spun frame.

Most people probably don't think of Riesling when they're looking for a seriously delicious wine. If you drink enough of it, I'm confident your attitude will change.

RECOMMENDED

Domaines Schlumberger Riesling Les Princes Abbeys 2006 (Alsace, France) $18

Dr. Fischer Riesling Steinbock 2007 (Saar, Germany) $16

Kilikanoon Riesling Watervale Mort's Block 2008 (Clare Valley, Australia) $22

Dr. Thanisch Riesling Classic 2007 (Mosel, Germany) $16

Dr. Pauly-Bergwiler Riesling Kabinett Wehlener-Sonnenuhr 2007 (Mosel, Germany) $28

Clüsserath-Weiler Riesling Spatlese Trittenheimer Apotheke 2007 (Mosel, Germany) $35

Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Auslese Graacher-Himmelreich 2007 (Mosel, Germany) $60

benweinberg@mywinenation.com