While I don't often recommend that any wine drinker eliminate entire categories of wines simply because of public pressure, I do understand that many folks, including a lot of wine writers and critics, like to give chardonnay and merlot a bum rap.

So, although I drink plenty of these wines both for pleasure and for work, I felt it would be a fun challenge to write a column that doesn't recommend anything made from either varietal. To my overly picky colleagues, I say this one's for you.

So what would I call to your attention if I were completely shunning those truly noble grapes? For whites I'd start with the elegant Christine Andrew Viognier from Lodi, Calif., with a musky, juniper-laced nose and gooseberry and grapefruit flavors that are fresh, light and lively.

Another wine I'd approve is the spicy Flora Springs Sauvignon Blanc Soliloquy, dominated by vibrant, juicy green apple and citrus. There's an edginess I like here, with spicy orange on the attack and persimmon and apricot notes on the finish.

Extending the anti-chardonnay crusade beyond our national borders, I suggest you try the very modern Paco & Lola Albarino from Rias Baixas, a small viticultural area in Spain that is quickly becoming famous for stunning whites. This wine combines a steely dry structure with lime peel and the barest whiff of petrol.

It's produced at a co-op with a young, dynamic management team and is as well made as it is tasty.

I'd also be very happy in a non-chardonnay sort of way if I had a bottle of the aromatic Josef Weger Gewurztraminer. Lime zest and baking spice vie for attention on the nose, and the peach and honeysuckle flavors are full, rich and spicy, nicely balanced with very good length.

Rose wines are usually an easy way to stay away from merlot because not a lot of blush is made from that grape. While still in Spain, seek out the exuberant Condesa de Leganza Rosado from La Mancha, a Tempranillo-based rose that's round and soft with flavors of apricot, tangerine and peach. It's perfect for appetizers or a light meal.

As for reds that aren't merlot, domestically I'd recommend the intriguing Ironstone Cabernet Franc from Lodi. The unusual mixture of cherry and olive flavors shouldn't work but does, and there's lots of pleasant fruit on the finish. This is a very successful wine made from a grape that's often hard to work with.

I'd also be quite pleased with the well-made Nicolas Potel Bourgogne Rouge out of Burgundy, France. From Pommard vines, this medium-bodied pinot noir's bright cherry fruit is wrapped around a juicy core, and there's enough acidity to keep everything in balance. What a mouthful of wine for a relatively modest price!

Another non-merlot to be sure to nab is the ripe, punchy Borsao Garnacha Tres Picos from Spain, full of kirsch, espresso, licorice and mint. This expansive wine is truly a party in a bottle, and it's inexpensive enough to serve to everyone at your post-holiday bash.

This anti-chardonnay and merlot column was, of course, written in fun. But it is important to remember that although tried-and-true wines always are comfortable, sometimes it's imperative to branch out a bit, to experience new tastes and smells that open up entire worlds of possibilities.

* I'll lead an oysters-and-bubbly tasting Feb. 6 at The Oceanaire Restaurant, 14th and Curtis streets, benefiting the Ronald McDonald House. If you'd like to attend, call the restaurant at 303-991-2277 or e-mail denver@theoceanaire.com.

I'll also be part of a tasting and silent auction at Bistro Al Vino in late April or early May. E-mail benweinberg@mywinenation. com for details.

Recommended

WHITE

* Christine Andrew Viognier 2007 (Lodi, Calif.) $16

* Flora Springs Sauvignon Blanc Soliloquy 2007 (Napa Valley, Calif.) $26

* Paco & Lola Albarino 2007 (Rias Baixas, Spain) $18

* Josef Weger Gewurztraminer 2007 (Alto Adige, Italy) $20

ROSE

* Condesa de Leganza Rosado 2007 (La Mancha, Spain) $10

RED

* Ironstone Cabernet Franc 2006 (Lodi, Calif.) $12

* Nicolas Potel Bourgogne Rouge 2006 (Burgundy, France) $20

* Borsao Garnacha Tres Picos 2006 (Borsao, Spain) $14

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