Literature and art often speak to love's contradictions. Look at what musicians have to say: "If you love someone, set them free"; "What's love got to do with it?"; and, of course, the immortal "love hurts."

But a love of wine can bypass these expectations, because great juice is liquid joy, an expression of the vintner's passions and skills that, if properly made, is unadulterated by petty concerns. That's why I chose wine as a career six years ago.

At the height of my occupational malaise, after each day of desk-bound drudgery, I went home, took off my tie, opened a bottle and went on a mini-vacation, to the hallowed hill of Corton in Burgundy one night and the Napa Valley's Howell Mountain the next.

When I decided to write about wine, I vowed never to forget that sense of adventure, of what's possible when love is part of the equation. These choices come from my catalog of love, perfect for a week when we're thankful for what we have or hopeful about what might be.

Bubbles can kindle romantic fire all by themselves. Look for the refreshingly tropical Zardetto Prosecco Zeta ($19), with its hints of mango, papaya and spice, a charming wine full of the promise of young love. Also seek out the slightly sweet Innocent Bystander Moscato ($12), a pretty melange of watermelon, raspberry and freshly mown grass. Each teasingly rich sip is memorable, like a good first date.

Roses are classic Valentine's Day food wines because of their pink tinge and mouthwatering acidity. Try the ripe, round, fully flavored Chateau D'Acqueria Tavel ($19) from the Rhone Valley in France, with a cherry and currant bouquet backed by rhubarb and tobacco on the mouth-filling finish.

Another romantic rose is the smoothly expressive Crios de Susana Balbo Rose of Malbec ($13), full of strawberries, cherries and a harmonious acidity. It transports me back to my dating days in college, when the future stretched far in front of me and anything was possible.

Red wines are a natural accompaniment to an amorous, home- cooked dinner for two. I like the pretty, stylish Paitin Dolcetto D'Alba Sori Paitin ($19). The bright acidity and dark red fruit flavors are charming and beautiful, like that Italian supermodel you always wanted to meet but were too shy to e-mail.

Also try the spicy Siduri Pinot Noir Sonoma County ($20), with berries and flowers on the nose and polished spice and mineral notes on the finish. It costs so little you can still cuddle at the fancy restaurant you've been wanting to visit.

No Valentine's Day column would be complete without dessert wines. Sweeties are an obvious metaphor for romance. So enjoy the Campbells Tokay Rutherglen ($19), fragrantly beguiling, with a rose petal and strawberry nose and almond and cashew notes on the finish.

benweinberg@mywinenation.com