In these uncertain times, life seems so much more complicated than it used to be - so much so that it seems like there may be little to celebrate this New Year's Eve.

But I think I've found a solution for the end- of-the-world-as-we- know-it blues: bubbles.

There's nothing quite as celebratory as a great glass of sparkling wine. Whether it's the fizzies that tickle the tongue, the acidic bite that makes sparklers such great food wines, or even the pomp and circumstance of actually releasing the organic missile that is a champagne cork, sparkling wines are just plain fun.

Now, it's true that some bubblies are more expensive than their still- wine counterparts, but for every $250 bottle of Dom Perignon, there are dozens of reasonably priced sparkling wines that are sure to make you smile without inspiring guilt over what you had to spend.

For starters, try the Segura Viudas Cava from Spain, a light, bright, refreshing mouthful of lemon zest, or perhaps the Martini & Rossi Prosecco from Italy, full of orange and lime and the slightest hint of residual sugar. Another excellent Italian sparkler is the Cara Mia Pro- secco, a delightful blend of crisp, pear- infused pinot bianco and lemony pro- secco grapes. All three wines work well with appetizers of any stripe.

The United States is a great source of inexpensive bubbles, starting with the Argyle Brut from Oregon, classically lean with elements of pears and cream. Another top choice is the raspberry-scented Mumm Cuvee Napa Blanc de Noirs from California, delicate and spicy, perfect either before or after a meal.

Some of the heaviest sparkling wines, the ones that pair best with substantial dishes, are deep red in color. Seek out the Black Chook Sparkling Shiraz from Australia, sturdy and mouth-coating, with a streak of red currants running through the surprisingly mild finish. Also look for the Banfi Rosa Regali from Italy, a mass of bright cherry fruit wrapped in cream and baking spice.

Finally, no mention of sparklers would be complete without at least some discussion of French wines. Although true Champagnes like the austere, toasty Piper-Heidsieck Brut or the mild, honeyed Pommery Brut are what most folks think of, bubbles are produced in most wine-growing regions of France. In addition to true Champagne, I particularly like sparkling wine from Burgundy, including the Lucien Albrecht Cremant de Bourgogne Rose, a fascinating blend of strawberries and honey.

When life seems most bleak, that's the perfect time to try to manufacture some homespun joy with a bottle of fizz. Who knows? It might just turn into the real thing.

benweinberg@comcast.net

Recommended

SPARKLING

* Segura Viudas Cava Brut NV (Catalonia, Spain), $8

* Martini & Rossi Prosecco NV (Veneto, Italy), $13

* Cara Mia Prosecco NV (Veneto, Italy), $13

* Argyle Brut NV (Oregon), $23

* Mumm Cuvee Napa Blanc de Noirs NV (California), $19

* Black Chook Sparkling Shiraz NV (southeastern Australia), $17

* Banfi Rosa Regali NV (Piedmont, Italy), $19

* Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV (Champagne, France), $32

* Pommery Brut NV (Champagne, France), $38

* Lucien Albrecht Cremant de Bourgogne Rose NV (Burgundy, France), $23

* Moet & Chandon Dom Perignon Brut NV (Champagne, France), $200