If we forgot about the forest because we were so taken with trees during some recent repasts, you'll have to forgive us.

At one dinner, we were totally jazzed about the pretty beet gnocchi ($16) in a light cheese sauce with shallots and grapes. The perfect dough thumbs exuded a fresh beet flavor that was, as one guest said, more hint than hammer. Months later, we recall exactly how it tastes.

On another visit the white polenta fondutto ($14) and savory cheese bread pudding ($6) made us smile. The butter-seared polenta disks on sauteed spinach were matched with a fresh sauce of cooked- down tomatoes. Crowned with a drizzle of gorgonzola sauce, red onion jam and caper berries, the dish was as good as we've had at upscale Italian eateries.

The super-rich bread pudding laced with Gorgonzola and Swiss cheeses was more like a melt-in- the-mouth souffle than the typically dense bread puddings served as desserts.

At a sunny Sunday brunch it was the quintessential huevos rancheros ($8) with fresh tasting green chile sauce over eggs, asadero cheese and corn tortillas with whole black beans, Mexican rice, buttery guacamole and piquant pico de gallo.

Or perhaps we were distracted by the establishment's impressive organic wine and beer list, pots of good tea or martinis made from the Boulder-based organic Vodka 14 that was macerating figs, apples and lemongrass in jars above the bar.

With a name like Leaf Vegetarian Restaurant, it's not like the eatery downplays the fact that it doesn't serve meat. We just forgot that crucial fact because the fare was so uniformly good. Although there are a number of vegan preparations, most of the dishes make liberal use of eggs, cream, butter and cheese.

The owners have wisely cherry-picked great dishes that weren't meat-centered to begin with from the globe's major cuisines. The restaurateurs aren't rookies. They've also been successful with Aji - the South American eatery next door to Leaf - the Boulder-Dushanbe Teahouse and The Huckleberry in Louisville.

They've also designed one of the most comfortable dining areas around. The serene atmosphere extends from the copper wall of water on one side to a mini herb garden in the room divider. We like the seating with lots of elbow room, the comfortable chairs and even the beautiful silverware.

We enjoyed the bistro's service because it was professional and attentive and the waiters weren't pushing a philosophical agenda. They were happy to talk about the organic, sustainable and "green" aspects of the restaurant, but only if asked.

For the most part they'd rather talk up the small plates, salads and soups that are the highlight of chef Nick Roberts' changing menu. On an early visit we started with an elegant, sophisticated saffron and strawberry risotto ($6).

We had to be talked into ordering the vegan potato leek soup ($3) but ended up loving the rich flavor with a hint of curry. It didn't taste like anything was "missing."

The same held true for the crisply fried spring rolls ($6) with ginger-chile dipping sauce and the remarkable Asian seaweed salad ($10), a texture fest of mizuna, cucumbers, beets, daikon and wonton crisps tossed in miso ginger vinaigrette.

Among the entrees we also took a shine to were the earthy mushroom fettuccine ($14) loaded with fleshy morels, and a cracker-thin pizza ($13) loaded with roasted garlic, spinach, capers, oven-dried tomatoes, caramelized onions and Parmesan.

There have been some missteps. One plate of pea and ricotta ravioli ($15) was literally drowned in cream sauce. The sauce on the Oaxacan mole ($17) was a dark, silky dream with hints of dark chocolate, cinnamon and nuts. However, the accompanying roasted poblano was stuffed with a chewy, crunchy mix of vegetables, nuts and fruits and reminded us a little too much of our hippy-dippy health-food days.

We abhor mushy veggies as much as the next diner but Leaf goes to the opposite extreme in too many dishes. Undercooked vegetables and under-saucing short-circuited our enjoyment of the massaman curry ($16) with black rice, grilled seitan ($15) and Indian korma ($9).

And we should never order apple pie ($6) because we're admitted snobs. Leaf's tall wedge meant well but the apples were hard and the bottom crust was doughy.

For dessert, we enjoyed the rich chocolate terrine ($6) and moist, sweet vegan carrot cake ($6), but the forbidden black rice pudding ($6) was a delightful sweet treat laced with spice and jammy mango chunks.

We'll return to Leaf because we like the vibe. We'll send people there still burdened with brown-rice-and-beans misconceptions and watch them leave happy and satisfied.

Leaf's easy to locate. You'll find it at the intersection of "good" and "good for you."

Leaf Vegetarian Restaurant

• Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. lunch Mon.-Fri.; 5 p.m.-close daily; 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sat.-Sun.

• Food: Vegetarian bistro

• How much: $4-$6 starters; $12-$16 entrees

• Reservations: Six or more

• Noise: Moderate

• Information: leafvegetarianrestaurant.com

Meat-free primer: Telling the tofu from the tempeh

You say you haven't eaten at a vegetarian bistro, but you're ready to take the plunge for health and environmental reasons. Here's a brief glossary of terms you might encounter:

• Tofu: Also called bean curd, tofu is a high-protein food made from soybeans. Almost nobody eats plain tofu. It's a virtually flavorless ingredient ideal for absorbing the spicing of a given dish. Tofu comes in several textures and can be baked, roasted, simmered or pan-seared.

• Tempeh: A firm cake or patty made from fermented soybeans that has a nutty, yeasty flavor and chewy texture. Some varieties come pre-flavored and mixed with whole grains. Like tofu, tempeh is a high-protein ingredient that adapts to myriad cooking techniques and seasoning approaches.

• Miso: An essential ingredient in Japanese cookery, this savory flavoring paste is made from fermented soybeans and grains. Most often used in light soups and flavoring fish dishes, miso can vary greatly in color, flavor and saltiness depending on ingredients and aging.

• Seitan: Pronounced say-tan, seitan is wheat gluten or protein that is used as a meat substitute. Because of its firm, chewy texture it is sometimes referred to as "wheat meat." Like tofu and tempeh, bland seitan is always used in highly seasoned preparations. Wheat gluten is a primary component of many faux sausage, bacon, chicken and beef products.

small bites

Tasty Web site

Find out which restaurants some Denver diners think are best at cityguide.aol.com/ denver/best in nine categories. Emogene Patisserie was No. 1 under Best Desserts and Bakeries, Fatburger topped the Best Burger category and Bennett's Bar-B-Que topped the Web voting for Best BBQ category.

Culinary calendar

McCormick's Fish House hosts the first of a monthly series of wine dinners today. Menu features red curry-marinated smoked monchong fish with poblano chile macaire potato and mango reduction; Cost: $75; 303-628-5532. . . . Chutney's, an Indian restaurant in Castle Rock, presents a wine dinner April 5 with Denver's Balistreri Winery. Cost: $65; 303-660-2020.

Reader mail

"During a trip to the Bahamas, my wife and I enjoyed the conch dishes we were served, including fried conch. Does any Denver eatery serve conch?"

Dear reader: I've only seen conch fritters at Jax Fish House. Readers: If you've seen conch, let me know at lehndorffj@RockyMountainNews.com.

on the menu

At Hoke's BBQ, 9134 W. 88th Ave., Westminster, Saturday-only Southern-fried Angus steak fritter with mashed potatoes, corn on the cob and gravy ($9.99); at Toast, 2700 W. Bowles Ave., Littleton, beef tenderloin Nicoise salad with olives, purple potatoes, green beans and chenin-blanc dressing ($12); at Vita, 1575 Boulder St., Denver, hanger steak with yam purée, balsamic mushrooms and basil cream spinach ($24); at Chada Thai, 2005 E. 17th Ave., Denver, chang mai larb - finely chopped chicken with lime juice, lemon grass and onion ($9.75); and at Sushi Yoshi, 406 Center Drive, Superior, grilled yellowtail collar with soup, salad and rice ($12.50).

eatery update

What are the best restaurants in the Denver area? Find out in the Dining Guide 2007 in today's Rocky. The special pullout section details my choices for the Top Five eateries in dozens of categories. Pull it out and save it for that moment when someone says: "Where do you want to eat dinner?" . . . Meanwhile, 'tis the season for closing restaurants. Afghan Village Restaurant has closed at 11002 E. Yale Ave. in Aurora. Also shuttered: Cuba Libre and I-Zen, 12684 W. Indore Place, Aurora. In the Italian category, Bambino's is closed at 1135 Bannock St. And owner Greg Goldfogel recently shut down Amore, 2355 E. Third Ave., a few months earlier than expected, so he can concentrate on Alto, his bustling new eatery at 1320 15th St. . . . Seven Eurobar has reopened as Seven on Pearl at 1035 Pearl St., Boulder. Top toque is Diego Coconati. . . . A Taste of Italy is open at 12200 E. Cornell Ave. in Aurora serving Italian vegetarian kosher fare in the same space where Denver Woodlands once dished Indian vegetarian kosher food. . . . Coming soon: The Corner Office is tentatively set for a May opening in the Curtis Hotel offering, according to its Web site, a "contemporary and regional American tapas menu . . . (and) selections incorporating Asian and Latin American influences." Later, Oceanaire, an upscale seafood restaurant, opens in the hotel. . . . Bradford Heap, who gained fame at his former eateries, Full Moon Grill and Chautauqua Dining Hall, is gaining new fans at his new place in Niwot. Now called Le Chantecler, it will become Colterra in April and feature locally sourced foods. . . . The new upscale American restaurant from Mel, Janie and Charles Master in the former Ocotillo space in Greenwood Village will be called Annabel's, named after Charles' daughter. . . We were saddened to learn of the recent death of food writer Sharon Tyler Herbst, who penned the indispensable The Food Lover's Companion (Barron's). She grew up near Golden and met her husband and collaborator, Ron Herbst, in Denver.

lehndorffj@RockyMountainNews.com or 303-954-5103

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