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Second helpings, January 27

Published March 9, 2007 at midnight

Tamales by La Casita

3561 Tejon St.; 4390 W. 44th Ave., Denver; 303-477-2899

Grade: B

What to expect: The Tejon location is a bright, new sit-down space to enjoy the Sandoval clan's famous, affordable New Mexican and Mexican fare. Families are happily welcome. The place even has Tecate on tap.

Be sure to try: You must sample the green and red tamales, preferably smothered in La Casita's excellent green and red chiles. Other joys include breakfast burritos, enchilada plate and sopaipillas.

How much to bring: $1.50 to $5.85; $8.75-$9.85 dozen tamales

Piatti Locali

190 St. Paul St., Denver; 303-321-1919, piatti.com/denver

Grade: C

What to expect: We love the ambience, the attentive, non-stuffy service, the by-the- glass Italian wine list and free valet parking, but the California- style Italian food is less than inspiring.

Be sure to try: Don't miss the simple, juicy chicken breast stuffed with prosciutto, asparagus and fontina with polenta; and Balsamic gelato in a cookie cup.

How much to bring: starters $5 to $9; entrées $11 to $20.

Cherry Crest Seafood Market

5909 S. University Blvd., Littleton; 303-798-2600; cherrycrestseafood.com

Grade: B-

What to expect: This casual fish house serves simple, well- made preparations from popcorn shrimp and steamed clams to baked breaded sea scallops and whole lobster.

Be sure to try: Entrée faves include baked halibut, and sea scallops in Pernod-infused cream sauce.

How much to bring: starters $3.25 to $11; entrees $14 to $20.

Bastien's Restaurant

3501 E. Colfax Ave., Denver; 303-322-0363, bastiensrestaurant.com

Grade: B+

What to expect: Open since 1958, this family-run classic dishes great steaks (that include side dishes) in a comfortable atmosphere.

Be sure to try: The sugar steak is a non-sweet, juicy joy. Don't miss the prime rib, fried chicken and Wiener schnitzel.

How much to bring: starters $6 to $9; entrees $12 to $24.

Lao Wang Noodle House

945 S. Federal Blvd., Denver; 303-975-2497

Grade: A-

What to expect: The ambience in this 25-seat place is strip-mall plain, there's no beer or wine and the service is casual but the Taiwanese fare - in huge, cheap portions - is truly remarkable.

Be sure to try: Don't miss the best pot stickers in town; wontons in spicy peanut sauce; dumplings; and beef noodle soup. How much to bring: starters $3 to $8; entrees $5 to $11.

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