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Nibbles, August 17

Published August 17, 2007 at midnight

You never know how much you need two hands until you try slicing a grilled chicken breast with only one of them. That's one of the things I learned during my recent, humbling six-week medical sabbatical.

I won't bore you with gruesome details, but I fell coming out of a shower in late June. In the process I damaged both elbows, had surgery on the left one, spent time in the hospital and in a rehab facility and finally came back to work last week.

The elbows are getting better, but as I recovered it became painfully clear that I have to get my arthritic right hip replaced ASAP. I can't have the surgery until I shed many more than the 30 pounds I've lost since June.

Despite my efforts and a gifted personal trainer, I've been unable to reach my weight goal while working full time as a dining critic and sampling 12 or more dishes per meal.

So, dear diners, I won't be doing any reviews for the Rocky until I get the new hip, although I'll continue writing this column and other features. I'm grateful that in the months to come, veteran Denver restaurant critic Lori Midson will fill in for me as reviewer.

Midson has written about the local dining scene for 10 years at various Web sites, for the Zagat Survey and for numerous magazines, including 5280, Colorado AvidGolfer and Sunset. Please give her a warm welcome.

My focus is firmly set on enjoying the healthiest, tastiest fare I can find, at home and at restaurants, and use what I've learned while writing about food for 25 years. I know that as I lose I win.

Many of you are facing an eating situation much like mine. As I go toward the lite, I'll pass along what I discover about good eating in the pages of the Rocky's Spotlight section.

Culinary calendar

The Telluride Festival of the Arts, today through Sunday, includes wine tastings, chef demonstrations, a martini workshop, a progressive restaurant tasting and a grand tasting. Guest chefs include Jennifer Jasinski (Rioja), Matt Selby (Vesta Dipping Grill)and Tyler Wiard (Elway's). telluridefest.com . . . Take a sommelier-guided bus tour of three Front Range wineries Aug. 25. The $79 cost covers transport, tastings and lunch. 303-777-9463, coloradowinecountrytours.com . . . At the third annual Denver Food and Wine Classic Aug. 26 under a tent at the Pepsi Center, sample the fare from 30 eateries including La Sandia, Morton's, O's, Panzano and La Tour, sip 400 wines and watch a Steel Chef competition. denverfoodandwine.com . . . Plan ahead: The Colorado Mountain Winefest runs from Sept. 13 to 16 in Palisade. coloradowinefest.com.

Rico Pollo

2120 W. Alameda Ave. (and other metro-area locations); 303-937-3883

Grade: B-

What to expect: mainly takeout, minimally decorated Mexican fast-food eateries featuring wonderful marinated fire-grilled chicken

Be sure to try: grilled chile chicken, chicken flautas, chicken quesadilla, chicken burrito, hot wings

How much to bring: $3 to $15

Il Posto

2011 E. 17th Ave; 303-394-0100, ilpostodenver.com

Grade: B

What to expect: Noisy urban trattoria dishing chef Andrea Frizzi's changing blackboard menu

Be sure to try: burrata cheese and tomato; hanger steak with milk-braised fennel; gnocchi with arugula-pistachio pesto

How much to bring: starters $7 to $14, pasta $11 to $15, entrees $16 to $22

Golden Europe

6620 Wadsworth Blvd, Arvada;

303-425-1246

Grade: B-

What to expect: modest, comfy eatery dishing classic German and Czech fare with family-friendly service

Be sure to try: Wiener schnitzel, roast duck, apple strudel

How much to bring: starters $3 to $8, entrees $13 to $20

Fruition

1313 E. Sixth Ave.; 303-831-1962

fruitionrestaurant.com

Grade: A

What to expect: a comfy, classy little restaurant with exceptional new American fare and polished service

Be sure to try: oysters Rockefeller, pasta carbonara, butter-poached smoked salmon, chocolate cupcakes

How much to bring: starters $7 to $12, entrees $19 to $24

Toast

2700 W. Bowles Ave., Littleton

303-797-9543, toastygoodness.com

Grade: B+

What to expect: cheerful, high-quality breakfast, brunch and lunch bistro

Be sure to try: eggs Benedict, bananas Foster pancakes, Reuben, curry chicken salad sandwich

How much to bring: breakfast $7 to $15, lunch $8 to $12; $3 for kids

on the menu

At Cherry Crest Seafood, 5909 S. University Blvd., Littleton, fresh Maine lobster salad on greens ($16.95); at Max Gill and Grill, 1052 S. Gaylord St., New England lobster roll with fries and slaw ($17); at Islamorada Fish Co., 7970 E. 49th Ave., grilled lobster tail platter ($17.95); at Pulcinella Ristorante, 1800 Lawrence St., lobster ravioli in saffron cream sauce ($17); at Ocean, 201 Columbine St., chilled lobster medallions with cocktail sauce ($22); and at Red Square Euro Bistro, 1512 Larimer St., on Fridays: roasted whole Maine lobster with garlic butter, cherry tomatoes, leeks and purple potatoes ($28).

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