Don't get us wrong: We'll happily indulge in some tamarind-seared foie gras with melon-dashi gelee, a few crab-stuffed prawns and braised wild boar. We've got no problem with between-course sorbets to cleanse our palate and four-star table service. But, frankly, we don't much like changing out of our Crocs. And are we supposed to tip the maitre d'? That's why we usually opt for a sandwich heaped with meat, maybe a side of soup and - if we've been good - a black and white cookie. We need a deli, and John Lehndorff recommends the following five in Dining Guide 2007:

BAGEL DELI AND RESTAURANT

6439 E. Hampden Ave., Denver

303-756-6667; thebageldeli.com

• Price range: $4 to $13 entrees

• Favorite dish: Chicken in a pot with noodles and kreplach and a matzoh ball.

• Review rating: B-

• In brief: We always enjoy stopping in at Joe and Rhonda Kaplan's place for a bite of something familiar and the sound of a friendly voice. We might nosh on a bagel and house-made cream cheese or a slice of challah French toast. Later in the day, we could maybe order a chopped liver on rye with a pickle and a chocolate phosphate. For serious eating, we give our seal of approval to the classic stuffed cabbage crammed with ground beef and rice awash in tomato sauce with a knish or, better yet, noodle kugel on the side. That would be nice.

DELI TECH

8101 E. Belleview Ave., Denver

303-721-6768; usmenuguide.com/ delitech.html

• Price range: $5 to $17

• Favorite dish: Potato latkes

• Review rating: B

• In brief: Big Apple natives tend to smile when they order a meal here. Some of the meats and breads are imported from the celebrated Carnegie Deli and the onion-centered bialys from H&H Bakery. Loyalists will appreciate the New York roast pork sandwich on a grilled sesame seed bun with Chinese sweet and sour plum sauce. Everyone will applaud the chicken soup and the cheesecake. For grandmotherly nostalgia, nothing beats the rugelach with flaky crust rolled around jam or well-toasted walnuts.

NEW YORK DELI NEWS

7105 E. Hampden Ave., Denver

303-759-4741

• Price range: $5 to $15

• Favorite dish: Latke with pastrami, Swiss cheese and Russian dressing

• Review rating: B+

• In brief: Everything about this south Denver institution is old school and just a little larger than life, from the smoked fish in the counter to the potato pancakes to the authentically abrasive waitresses. We're cheap, so we like the free pickles on the table, and we're fond of the stacked rare roast beef sandwiches. Blintz bliss was achieved with a couple of these warm, freshly griddled eggy crepes wrapped around sweet cottage cheese.

SALVAGGIO'S ITALIAN DELI

Three Boulder locations, including 2609 Pearl St.

303-938-1981

• Price range: $5 to $10

• Favorite dish: Hot pastrami roll

• In brief: Know what you want before you get to the counter here. It's a "no ummms" zone. Hesitate and you'll get a virtuoso East Coast razzing. We don't mind because they deliver the goods. They start with the most important thing: delicious, yeasty, house-baked-from-scratch rolls. They fill them with sliced-to-order pastrami, prosciutto, capicola or sliced prime rib and all the right condiments. The result is a superior sandwich that puts all the chain sub places to shame; it's worth a little good-natured ribbing to get one.

ZAIDY'S DELI

121 Adams St. and 1512 Larimer St., Denver

303-333-5336 and 303-893-3600; zaidysdeli.com

• Price range: $5 to $13

• Favorite dish: Latke Reuben with pastrami, sauerkraut and Russian dressing

• Review rating: B+

• In brief: When we're struck by a sudden knish craving, we head downtown or to Cherry Creek. Our favorite knish involves pastry wrapped around chunky mashed potatoes served warm with a side of butter. Sandwiches come in two sizes: normal and humongous New York BIG, whether stacked with turkey or slathered with chopped liver. We're always happy to soothe our souls with Zaidy's stellar oatmeal raisin cookies, heavily iced carrot cake, Denver's best black and white cookies and butter-drenched lemon bars. What's not to like?

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