A child of divorce, I spent 12 years shuttling between two households, two sets of values, two realities. When pressured to take sides, I was paralyzed. How could I choose when I loved them both?

The dilemma I face in the wine world feels a lot like that: On one side, you have producers declaring, "We must make wines of place! Of character! Uniquely quirky wines that sing of grape and terroir."

On the other, a multitude of consumers want nothing of the kind. They couldn't tell a mountain from a valley vineyard, and the last thing they need is a new grape to learn. They want wines of predictability and simplicity, of style and fun.

When I take friends into my cellar and ask them to pick out the most appealing bottles, they almost all go for high-concept wines, the kind that care more about branding and target audience than the juice inside.

My friend Stefano Inama, an Italian Soave producer, watches me unwrap a California cabernet called Big Yellow. The accompanying PR calls it "a smooth, soft ride inspired by a vintage taxi cab."

"How the hell can wine be inspired by a taxi?" exclaims Stefano. His own, after all, is inspired by slowly evolved native grapes, careful selection of slopes and soils and the weather that God sees fit to hand him each year. I adore his wine. But I like Big Yellow, too, in a different way. The checker-cab label is cool, and the wine tastes good.

So - oh, dear - whose side am I on? I find the answer in Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi's classic book, Flow, which explores the glorious experience of losing oneself in an activity: both.

The author makes a distinction between enjoyment and pleasure. Pleasure is the passive experience of watching TV, eating a bag of Cheetos or just having the appropriate brain centers electrically stimulated. Because you invest no psychic energy, pleasure is generally fleeting.

Enjoyment comes from activities like playing tennis or piano, or closing a high-pressure business deal. It might not even be pleasant at the time, but afterward, you want to do it again.

Almost everyone gets pleasure eating. But the serious gourmet, analyzing ingredients and noticing nuances we miss, truly enjoys it. Wine quenches your thirst, pleases your mouth and gives you a buzz. But if you dive deeper, it can also be your ticket to flow.

If you find wine geeks annoying or intimidating, or wonder what the fuss is about, think of your own passions.

If you're intrigued but don't know where to begin, here's something fun to try: Buy two or three very similar wines. Doesn't matter if they're jug juice or Chateau Show-Off, as long as they're the same grape, from roughly the same area, at about the same price.

Mark your glasses on the bottom, pour a taste of each and taste back and forth a few times, paying attention to differences. Perhaps one is sweeter, or has more aroma. Notice smells, tastes, tactile sensations and what happens in your mouth after you swallow.

Now, shut your eyes and have a friend mix up the glasses, or do it yourself. Now, without opening your eyes, identify the wines.

If you get it wrong, no problem. Just go back, find more clues and try again.

If you're already a committed connoisseur, then your assignment is different: Lighten up for once, hail a California cab and enjoy the smooth ride.

Recommended

• Big Yellow Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (U.S.) $11

• Inama Soave Classico 2006 (Italy) $14 Plus some summer whites:

• Forestville Chenin Blanc 2005 (U.S.) $6

• A-Mano Fiano-Greco 2006 (Italy) $11

• White Knight Chardonnay/Viognier 2006 (U.S.) $13

• Zuccardi Serie A Chardonnay Viognier 2006 (Argentina) $15

• Maryhill Columbia Valley Viognier 2004 (U.S.) $16

• Zaca Mesa Viognier 2006 (U.S.) $18

• Bridlewood Central Coast Reserve Viognier 2005 (U.S.) $24

• Silver Unoaked Chardonnay 2006 (U.S.) $42

Jester@corkjester.com

Back to Top