By early August most of us carnivores have grilled our share of beef for the season. We're also in need of a savory reminder that our patented technique for preparing steaks - briquet black on the outside, bright pink on the inside - may not be the most reverent preparation for a T-bone or sirloin. Get thee to a steakhouse. And you might as well make it a good one. John Lehndorff named these five beef palaces in Dining Guide 2007:

BASTIEN'S RESTAURANT

3501 E. Colfax Ave.

303-322-0363, bastiensrestaurant.com

• Price range: $12 to $25 entrees

• Favorite dish: 16-ounce sugar steak with twice-baked potato

• Review rating: B+

• In brief: Family-run since 1958, this 12-sided landmark is a steakhouse for the rest of us: comfortable, casual and not a la carte. The ribeye and T-bone steaks, along with the prime rib, are as good as beef gets, and Bastien's also dishes mighty fine fried chicken, a huge Wiener schnitzel and, for a finisher, a sizzling skillet fruit pie.

BROOK'S STEAK HOUSE

6538 S. Yosemite St., Greenwood Village

303-770-1177, brookssteakhouse.com

• Price range: $24 to $40 entrees

• Favorite dish: prime bone-in ribeye steak

• Review rating: B+

• In brief: This clubby eatery is an endangered species in Denver, a great independent steakhouse in a world where upscale chain eateries rule. From the textbook crab cakes to the quintessential strawberry shortcake by way of high-temperature grilled juicy prime steaks and fine seafood, we've been grateful for the many first-class dining experiences we've enjoyed at Brook's.

CAPITAL GRILLE

1450 Larimer St.

303-539-2500, thecapitalgrille.com

• Price range: $19 to $40 entrees

• Favorite dish: 22-ounce Delmonico steak

• Review rating: A-• In brief: In a city crowded with upscale steak joints, this Larimer Square eatery is the king. The food, drinks and ambience are first-class, but it's the spare-no-effort service that keeps us coming back. Everyone from the valet to the busboys and managers makes every single diner feel like a valued guest.

DEL FRISCO'S DOUBLE EAGLE STEAK

8100 E. Orchard Road, Greenwood Village

303-796-0100, delfriscos.com

• Price range: $20 to $50 entrees

• Favorite dish: 16-ounce veal Porterhouse steak

• Review rating: A-• In brief: Like all of Denver's upscale steak palaces, Del Frisco's is extremely pricey. Unlike many of its chain brethren, this place is worth it. Needless to say, the sirloin, prime rib, Delmonicos and filet mignon are all first- class and cooked precisely. But it's the service, luxurious ambience and exceptional wine service that make this a "special occasion" destination that deserves the designation.

ELWAY'S

2500 E. First Ave.

303-399-5353, elways.com

• Price range: $10 to $50 entrees

• Favorite dish: 33-ounce Porterhouse steak

• Review rating: B

• In brief: Initially a curiosity because of its namesake co-owner, this Cherry Creek winner is acclaimed for first-class food and exceedingly professional, attentive service. With veteran toque Tyler Wiard overseeing the kitchen, the whole menu shines, not just the excellent steaks. Look for a second Elway's to open downtown in the new Ritz-Carlton Hotel.

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