The short season for shell peas is starting around now.

While snow peas and sugar snap peas have tender pods that can be eaten whole, shell peas - sometimes called English peas - need to be shelled before cooking.

What seems like a lot of work pays off in a robust, fresh flavor that needs almost no coaxing.

To shell peas, grab the string sticking out of one end of the pod and pull it back, like a zipper, to release the peas inside. Save the shells for vegetable stock; they add pungency and depth of flavor.

Shell the peas right before you cook them - and buy them almost immediately before that.

The sugars in peas turn to starch shortly after peas are picked. Look for firm, green pods with even coloring; run fingers along the pods to make sure peas are plump and evenly sized.

Food Network Kitchens, foodnetwork.com