I don't want to sound too Boulder-ized, but I try to empty my mind of preconceptions when I first dine at a restaurant. I figure it's only fair to "eat here now."

I say "try" because it doesn't always work. For instance, I couldn't help waltzing into Nine75 with some great expectations.

It's hard to ignore the star power of the new eatery's kitchen crew. Chef (and partner) Troy Guard's culinary pedigree is as good as they come. He trained with big-time toques Roy Yamaguchi and Richard Sandoval and opened the highly successful Zengo. Guard's second-in-command is Ian Kleinman, the soup- and sauce-making savant behind the Hilltop Cafe and Indigo.

I had eaten at 975 Lincoln St. a few months back when it was Moda, a poorly conceived Italian restaurant. I was relieved to find that the space had undergone a warming makeover. The wood floors, mirrors and basic black scheme give Nine75 a classy feel, and the flower-splashed dishes add brightness.

While the dining area is less awkward than at Moda, the best room in the restaurant remains the comfy, spacious luxe bar at the back of the building with its panoramic views that should be the dining room.

Meals begin with the potentially pretentious but ultimately refreshing house ice water infused with cucumber and strawberries. Our interest was piqued immediately by Guard's eclectic, something-for-everyone comfort-based menu. Few descriptive details are provided, so the bright-faced servers do a lot of explaining and remind diners that the fare is meant for sharing.

My first expectation-exceeding delight was the Nine75 seafood ravioli ($9) that deserves the signature designation. Perfect shrimp and salmon tidbits tucked in a thin pasta wrapper were enveloped in a truly yummy wine cream sauce.

My guests gave a mixed review to the Kobe beef sliders ($14). They're good tasting little burgers - reasonably juicy with mustard and lettuce on a grilled bun - but what's the point of using this absurdly pricey beef to make thin patties that can't be cooked less than medium?

There was no debate about Nine75's fried chicken ($15). We were disappointed in the non-juicy, white-meat only pieces with a too-floury crunchy crust that fell off. A simple, iconic item like this should be delivered perfect every time.

Our favorite big dish of the evening was the stupidly named Miso (excited about this) black cod ($21), a firm, sea-fresh filet napped in an exceptional sauce that revealed flavors instead of obscuring them.

We might have been happy simply gorging on the better-than-homemade sides, including the chunky, buttery mashed potatoes ($5) and lip-smacking-good garlic creamed spinach ($5) that was creamy but still mainly spinach. The macaroni and cheese ($5) offered a sauce dense with fontina, Cheddar, gouda and Swiss cheeses coddling al dente elbows baked under jalapeño-flecked bread crumbs.

This initial meal had commenced hours earlier with fine, complimentary happy hour frites in the bar. We bookended it with first-class, buttercream-frosted peanut butter and chocolate cake ($7) with meringue layers.

For our second dinner we dove into the seafood choices. We loved the seabass ceviche shooter ($2) for its taste and look. The shot glass of tart, spicy fish with cilantro was presented atop a glowing light buried in ground ice.

The yellowtail sashimi ($12) was a chefly splendor. The five slices of impeccably fresh fish were barely seared by a warm oil dressing with complex, smoky, citrus undertones and a musty note of truffle oil.

Also memorable was the tender calamari ($9) mingled with watercress, red jalapeño slices and a tart dressing. The "colossal" crab cake ($12) crowned with crunchy green papaya shreds was crispy and crab-o-licious but only moderately sized and far from colossal.

Our only issue with Guard's delicious poblano Oaxaca "quesadillas" ($8) was that they weren't quesadillas. The empanada-like small puff pastry crescents filled with Mexican cheese are squiggled with tomatillo sauce and black bean puree.

Several of the main dishes made us smile. We were very happy with the pan-seared, potato-crusted Atlantic salmon ($16) and the first-class filet mignon ($28), which deserves the accolade "fork tender" and was garnished with a nice, fresh herb butter over a glistening, rich pan sauce.

Nine75's meatloaf ($15) was decent but nothing to write home about. Slices of the baked beef and pork loaf were sacrilegiously grilled before being redeemed by a great mushroom-studded gravy, silky mashers and one perfect, crunchy onion ring. We were shocked we had to pay $2 extra to get bread on the table.

The king crab legs ($25 pound) sounded real good, but unfortunately the arms and claws were overcooked on the grill. The meat wasn't sweet or moist and the dressing was too tart. We just didn't want to eat it. Our waitress couldn't have been more gracious. She kindly took it away and deducted it from our bill with sincere apologies. We were reminded again how well-trained and attentive this staff can be.

We ended our visit on a high note with freshly house-spun cotton candy ($6) and high quality dark chocolate fondue ($14) notable for the killer cookies that accompany it. We recommend the strawberry shortcake ($7) for its macerated berries, dense whipped cream and toasted almond sauce.

In the expectations game, Nine75 offered more hits than misses. I wish the eatery's brain trust would dispense with the silly '80s rock soundtrack, the cutesy menu that lists soups as "liquid" and drinks involving Ovaltine and Tang. I wish they would focus on the food and really harness all that talent in the kitchen.

Guard, Kleinman and company are capable of creating some of the best fare in Denver, the kind of victuals that will create a must-try buzz.

Nine75

• Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

• Food: American bistro

• How much: $2-$12 raw bar; $6-$15 starters; $15-$29 entrees

• How loud: Moderate to loud

• Reservations: Yes

John Lehndorff is the dining critic; lehndorffj@RockyMountainNews.com or 303-892-5103.

Back to Top