At 6 p.m. on a weekday, the Cherry Creek Grill is packed. Folks are standing in the doorway, crowded around the U-shaped bar centering the dining area and milling about outside. There's at least a 20-minute wait.

It's this busy almost every day. While other eateries beg for customers and open and close with dulling rapidity, this one seems to be consistently full.

One of the secrets to the Grill's success is the clubby dining area of tiered booth seating with good sight lines that enhance people-watching, the prevailing sport of Cherry Creek. The room is dimly lit except for a single lamp shining on each white tablecloth-covered table. Carpeting and sound baffles on the ceiling help make the sound level tolerable.

Another key is a small menu of tried-and-true American favorites with a slight Southwestern accent that is livened up by several daily, grilled, fresh fish specials.

We loved the bargain corn bread ($3) served in a skillet straight from the oven with a crispy top. Lots of green chile, corn kernels and sweetness are incorporated into this moist treat that doesn't need butter (but we always spread it on anyway).

The menu's few starters are listed at the bottom of the menu under "This & That." The top appetizer is the grilled artichoke ($9), a tender veggie rubbed with salt, oil and herbs that takes on a seriously woodsy, charred flavor that permeates to the heart.

On a recent visit we began with the dip duo with warm tortilla chips ($8). The chopped, smoked trout dip was enchanting, but we had mixed emotions about the jalapeño "queso." It was "queso," if by "queso" we mean thick Velveeta/Cheez Whiz-type orange stuff laced with pickled peppers. It did appeal to my inner beer drinker, but for $8 I expected better. Plus, the chips weren't warm.

The Grill's sandwiches are well-prepared wonders including a cheeseburger ($9) that is among Denver's best. The half-pound, hand-formed patty of fresh-ground chuck roast is cooked-to-order and delivers equal parts chew, juice and char.

The easy-to-like prime rib French dip sandwich ($15) is layered with thin slices of medium rare beef. We appreciated the genuine, not-too-salty au jus and the creamed horseradish with just enough bite.

We weren't sure that it was particularly manly, but the macho salad ($14) had a satisfying sweet and creamy appeal. Greens and croutons were mingled with roasted chicken, fresh corn kernels, almonds, avocado, dates and creamy cheese in a mild vinaigrette.

The Caesar salad ($5 small, $9 large) also was designed to be a crowd-pleaser with chopped romaine tossed in a mild, creamy dressing that betrayed a bare hint of anchovy with plenty of Parmesan and the best part: toasted corn bread croutons.

The Cherry Creek Grill's most popular dish is the rotisserie chicken ($14) rubbed with an herb and spice blend and roasted over the hard-wood fire. We gobbled up the good-sized portion of crisp-skinned, juicy Red Bird chicken that was well-mated with the signature, butter-topped colcannon-style chunky mashers mixed with chopped cabbage and green onion. Running a close second is the thick cut of succulent roasted prime rib ($25).

Equally appealing was the sophisticated, sliced, medium rare leg of lamb ($18) with a distinctive woodsy flavor. It was served with a red chile sauce and a Mexican cucumber and fresh corn salad.

My personal fave was the good-looking, sizzling platter of Rio Grande pork tenderloin ($19). The sliced grilled meat sprinkled with parsley and chopped pecans was dabbed with a semi-sweet glaze that offered some zest. On the side were tooth-tender roasted red and gold beets and a lovely choice of "seasonal vegetable," which typically means broccoli or asparagus.

One guest swore by the thin, flaky filet of salmon ($19) in a teriyaki-like marinade nicely cross- hatched over the fire, but could have lived without the accompanying escabeche, an undistinguished blend of cauliflower, jalapeños, olives and squash.

Finally, I was underwhelmed by the Grill's barbecue baby back ribs ($21). The little beef ribs were over-charred, not especially smoky, and smothered in a too-sweet barbecue sauce. I did like the crunchy coleslaw topped with chopped peanuts.

Desserts here are big and sweet but lack "wow" factor. I was particularly unimpressed by the deconstructed banana cream pie ($7). The filling and crust were piled with logs of banana drizzled with caramel sauce and whipped cream. It was a mess and not, at least to my taste, a great pie experience. The coffee also was disappointingly blah.

Despite the casual look, the Cherry Creek Grill can end up being bistro expensive if you add in drinks, dessert and extras. It's hard to swallow the mediocre dishes when so many other things are done so well.

In three visits we enjoyed enthusiastic service by obviously well-trained servers. Many different servers and managers work the table in the course of the meal, an approach that gets the food to the table quickly. However, so many faces can be disruptive, and we never really bonded with our "main" waitress to a degree that would prompt a big tip.

As an outlet of a 50-plus restaurant chain, the Grill has house rules designed to protect the bottom line that are somewhat off-putting. No reservations are taken, but a waiting list is maintained. No one can be seated until the entire party arrives. According to the menu, an "18 percent gratuity will be added for tables of five or more adults." If you share an entree, there's a split plate charge of $4. Sometimes, when the Grill is very busy, customers are discouraged from taking a booth if they only want to drink and have starters.

Look, Cherry Creek Grill has earned its devoted crew of regulars. They and occasional visitors know they will have a predictably good meal, not a palate-expanding adventure. Sometimes that's just fine.

Cherry Creek Grill

• Grade: B-

• Address: 184 Steele St., Denver

• Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; until 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday

• Food: lunch and dinner

• How much: $3-$10 starters; $10-$29 sandwiches, salads and entrees

• How loud: Moderate to loud

• Reservations: No

• Information: 303-322-3524

LAST FIVE REVIEWS

• Jay's Patio Café chive ham sandwich A-

• North grilled artichokes A-

• Jax Fish House raw oysters B+

• Brook's Steak House escargot B+

• Pho Van beef stew with rice B

John Lehndorff is the dining critic; lehndorffj@rockymountainnews.com or 303-892-5103

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