Brix is a nearly perfect antidote to post-bistro syndrome. You know the feeling. You've just had an exquisite multicourse sampling feast of impeccably sourced and well-prepared New American cuisine. The food exhibited nuances and subtleties by the truckload. You leave with an empty wallet and the feeling that you need to go have dinner somewhere.

Brix co-owner Charlie Master has bistros in his bloodline. His parents, Mel and Janie Master, helped define New American cuisine and own Mel's Restaurant, where Charlie worked and trained.

Out on his own, he turned almost every bistro rule on its ear. Begin with big portions of normal-sounding fare at affordable prices. The wines by the glass start at $4, not $7. The desserts are $5 instead of $8. The place is casual enough that you don't feel awkward ordering a Rather Special Hot Dog ($6) and a can of Pabst Blue Ribbon Beer ($1.75). You also don't feel like you have to get dressed up.

The space, formerly occupied by the doomed French-Brazilian bistro Aquarela, has been revamped. The comfortable modern space is designed to disarm you with its graffiti-covered poles, eclectic music, candlelit brown paper-covered tables, and whimsical decorations.

The menu descriptions are also shockingly minimalist. Take, for instance, grilled sirloin with onion rings ($24). That's it. No ranch of origin on the steak. No species on the onion. No details on toppings.

Brix offers marvelous pre-appetizers ($3 each; $7 for three) in its While looking at the menu section. We liked all the small plates, including garlic-spiked hummus and pita points; bright green, fresh pesto; mixed olives; and roasted mixed nuts tossed in herb-infused olive oil.

It didn't take any effort to love a cute dish like the simple poached egg and bacon salad ($5.50). Warm egg yolk makes a fine dressing on the spinach and thick-cut smoky bacon.

I'm weary of seeing calamari on every appetizer menu, but Brix's crispy calamari zucchini ($6.75) makes me want to like deep-fried squid again. These calamari rings and squash strips are cooked well without being rubbery and balanced by red-pepper mayo and jalapenos.

The order of steamed Manila clams ($9) boasted a pile of tender mollusks in a fine garlic and herb-influenced broth with chunks of sausage. Joy is dipping toast in that broth.

Several starters failed the comfort test, including the soggy, deep-fried duck taquitos ($5) and a forgettable cup of chile ($6) that was mainly beans and ground meat with heat but little flavor.

Well-made comfort-food variations also rule the main-dish menu. What could be more satisfying than Mum's zinfandel beef stew ($14)? The fall-apart pieces of lean meat in rich gravy is ladled over chunky mashed potatoes. It matched well with cheap red wine.

In a similar vein is the justifiably popular duck shepherd's pie ($14). We loved the combination of mildly seasoned shredded duck crowned with mashers and cheese presented steaming from the oven.

Another likable dish is the tagliatelle Harry's Bar ($13), long strands of pasta, peas and ham enveloped in a light creamy cheese sauce. It went especially well with the side order of perfectly cooked brussels sprouts ($1) butter-sauteed with smoky bacon. Even avowed brussels sprouts loathers would like these flavorful, slightly sweet vegetables.

I'd also order the rigatoni ($12) again. The al dente macaroni is certainly simpatico with bacon, peppery sausage slices, mushrooms and spinach in a light, fresh tomato-and-basil sauce.

One bistro law that remains in force is an insistence on using impeccable ingredients. Using the good stuff means that a potentially boring item such as fish and chips ($12.75) is elevated to excellence. Brix's big fresh white filet is only lightly breaded and fried and arrives hot, not greasy, and accompanied by craveable skin-on fries. The obligatory roast fowl dish, Moroccan chicken ($12), includes pieces of truly juicy, great tasting bone-in bird.

We're also fans of the blackened salmon ($14). Watchful cooking creates a fine, crispy-spicy crust and a moist, pink interior.

Brix is not a made-up restaurant name. It's the measure of sugar content used in winemaking. That might suggest a wine-snob eatery. Instead, none of the bottles on the list cost more than $30 — unheard of in Cherry Creek. Even quirkier, the bar stocks nary a brand-name liquor.

It's worth stopping by Brix simply for an Illy cappuccino and a cup of soothing, rich chocolate pudding ($5). Order it without the lame canned whipped- cream topping. The coconut cream puffs ($5) with caramel and chocolate sauce were gobbled up quickly, but we did note that the pastry cream didn't taste much like coconut. Less compelling was Shot & a Beer ($5), a ho-hum cheesecake wedge flavored with a little stout and topped by whiskey fudge sauce.

For the most part, the service matched the cuisine and ambience at Brix: unpretentious and friendly. The exception was during the second dinner. We'd finished our appetizers and those dishes hadn't been cleared when the waiter showed up with an armful of entrees. The table was covered in dirty dishes. "I think you'll want to clear the table first," I said. The waiter indicated with a semi-snarl that he was going to set the dishes down immediately. We had to clear the dishes for him.

Brix has a family-friendly dining room, staff and menu, but I'm loath to recommend Brix to families. To get to the dining area, you must snake through the bar, a smoky, noisy, narrow gauntlet. I came close to having my face used as an ashtray by a gesticulating bar patron. It was a disappointing conclusion to several entertaining meals. Brix must decide whether it's a busy restaurant that serves drinks or a popular bar that also offers food. It can't be both.

3000 East 3rd

5 p.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Tues.; 5 p.m.-12 a.m. Wed.-Sat.

303-333-3355